Role Reversal

For the past five year’s I’ve been professionally focused on two things – setting and coaching. Because of this, I’ve been to cool places, met cool people, and got to be backstage on some really well run and fun competitions. The catch is that if you’re always coaching or setting, you never really have the opportunity to play for yourself! So last February at a Tour de Bloc I gave it a whirl. You can read my original post here.

After that finals experience, I definitely wanted more. Competing is fun! So, one of my goals for this fall was to compete in a couple of the OCF sanctioned competitions. I figured it would at least be a fun experience, and maybe it would also help me further understand the pressures my athletes face.

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Is Your Dog a Crag-Dog?

Let me tell you: I love dogs. I love big dogs, small dogs, every dog in between. I love smart dogs, dumb dogs, and average-joe dogs. Black dogs, white dogs, yellow dogs, brown dogs… But just because I love your dog doesn’t mean I’d love your dog to be at the crag with me. So how do you know if your dog will be accepted at the crag?

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March Break Adventures

I’ve spent a couple weeks in the Chattanooga area every winter for the past 4 years, mostly at Little Rock City, as its myriad of tricky slab problems fit well with my strengths. Last year I sent my two hardest boulders to date at LRC, “Grimace”, an absolute 5 star line, and “I Think I Can”, the most contrived crimp ladder I’ve ever split a tip on. Facebook keeps suggesting I repost some of those memories, which is nice, but really it’s only reminding me that my 8a bouldering scorecard is about to tank. (#spoileralert)

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Does this make me a Comp Climber?

For me, like most Canadian climbers, winter means lots of hangboard, rings, and gym climbing. This winter I decided to add in some competition climbing as well, just to have something to be accountable to and work toward. I decided on the lofty goal of making finals at Ontario’s last regular TdB stop, Grand River Rocks on Feb 25th.

I began a hangboard program, adding in a mixed bag of other exercises to work my weaknesses, but in the end I decided to go with the newest Alex Puccio training plan: gastroenteritis. Yes, I became violently ill with the stomach virus 2 weeks before the comp.

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Vegas Roundup

I hate flying. I hate the crowds in the airport, the waiting for the flight, the take-off, the landing, the turbulence… If you’ve ever flown with me, you’ll already know that I’m not much fun to be around. I am a ball of nerves, a panic attack waiting to happen. My 2013 Outback has over 200,000kms on it because air travel is just not my thing. So I’d like to pat myself on the back a bit for making it all the way to Vegas, especially after I realized I’d forgotten my passport.

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